Luxury knitwear by fibre
Cashmere, merino, alpaca, vicuña and the other luxury fibres
What each fibre is, how it is graded, which houses specialise in it, and how to judge it. For a side-by-side comparison, read the fibre comparison guide.
Which fibre is best for knitwear? Vicuña (12–13 µm) is the finest and rarest; Grade A cashmere (under 15.5 µm) is the practical luxury benchmark for warmth and softness; extra-fine merino is the most versatile and durable; royal alpaca rivals cashmere and pills less. The right choice depends on the garment.
| Fibre | Luxury grade (µm) | Origin | Houses |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cashmere | 14–19 µm (Grade A is 14–15.5 µm) | Inner Mongolia (China), Mongolia, Afghanistan, Iran; spun and knitted chiefly in Scotland and Italy | 36 |
| Merino wool | Extra-fine 15–18.5 µm; fine 18.6–21 µm | Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America; spun in Italy (Biella) and knitted in the UK, Italy and Japan | 20 |
| Alpaca | Royal alpaca under 19 µm; baby alpaca 19–22.5 µm; superfine 22.5–25 µm | Peru (around 80% of world supply), Bolivia, Chile | 5 |
| Vicuña | 12–13 µm | Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Chile — wild animals shorn every two to three years under strict regulation | 6 |
| Yak down | 16–20 µm | Tibetan Plateau, Mongolia, Nepal | 0 |
| Baby camel hair | 16–19 µm | Mongolia and Inner Mongolia | 2 |
| Wool, lambswool & Shetland | Lambswool 20–24 µm; Shetland 23–30 µm | Scotland, the Shetland Isles, Australia and New Zealand; knitted chiefly in the Scottish Borders | 11 |
| Silk & silk blends | Filament fibre, ~10–13 µm equivalent | China, India, Brazil; blended and knitted in Italy and Scotland | 16 |
| Sea Island & long-staple cotton | Extra-long staple: fibre length over 35 mm | West Indies (Sea Island), Egypt (Giza), Peru and the US (Pima); knitted in England, Italy and Japan | 24 |
| Mohair | Kid mohair 23–27 µm; adult 30+ µm | South Africa (the majority of world supply), Texas, Turkey; spun in Italy | 0 |
Cashmere
The undercoat of the cashmere goat: fine, warm, and graded by fibre length and diameter.
Merino wool
Fine sheep's wool, breathable and resilient, best when extra-fine (under 18.5 µm) and worsted-spun.
Alpaca
Silky, hypoallergenic Andean fibre; baby alpaca and royal alpaca are the luxury grades.
Vicuña
The rarest and finest natural fibre in the world, from a protected wild Andean camelid.
Yak down
The fine undercoat of the Himalayan and Mongolian yak — a warm, sustainable cashmere alternative.
Baby camel hair
The fine first-year undercoat of the Bactrian camel, warm and naturally golden.
Wool, lambswool & Shetland
Sheep's wool in its luxury forms: lambswool from a first shearing, lofty Shetland, and dense worsted British and Nordic wools.
Silk & silk blends
Silk adds lustre, cool drape and strength to cashmere and cotton knits.
Sea Island & long-staple cotton
Extra-long-staple cottons — Sea Island, Giza, Pima — knitted at fine gauge for summer luxury.
Mohair
Lustrous, fluffy fibre from the Angora goat; kid mohair is the luxury grade.