Fibre guide · 20 houses

Merino wool knitwear

Fine sheep's wool, breathable and resilient, best when extra-fine (under 18.5 µm) and worsted-spun.

Merino is wool from the Merino sheep, prized for a fibre diameter far finer than ordinary wool. Extra-fine merino, worsted-spun into a smooth long-staple yarn, produces knitwear that is lightweight, wrinkle-resistant and comfortable next to the skin. It is the fibre behind the classic English fine-gauge knit and much of the world's best layering knitwear.

What makes merino wool luxury quality

  • Micron count: extra-fine (under 18.5 µm) merino is soft enough for next-to-skin wear; coarser merino may itch.
  • Spinning: worsted-spun merino is smoother and stronger than woollen-spun; look for long-staple fibre.
  • Gauge: fine-gauge (24–30 gg) merino knits are a luxury speciality, requiring precise machinery and skilled linking.
  • Treatment: superwash treatments make merino machine-washable but can flatten the hand; untreated merino keeps more bounce.
  • Origin marks: certified Australian or New Zealand merino often carries traceability schemes.

Care

Hand-wash or gentle wool cycle in cool water; dry flat; store folded with cedar to deter moths. See the full care guide.

Houses working in merino wool

  • Batoner

    $$

    Sagae · 2013 · merino, cashmere · fully-fashioned

    In-house label of a Yamagata family knitting mill operating since 1951

  • Corgi

    $$$

    Ammanford · 1892 · wool, cashmere · hand-framed

    Hand-framed Welsh knitwear and hand-finished luxury socks, royal warrant holder

  • Dale · 1879 · merino · jacquard

    Norwegian patterned wool ski and heritage sweaters, official supplier to the national ski team since 1956

  • Ichikawamisato · 2001 · silk, cashmere · machine-knit

    Quiet, natural-fibre Japanese knitwear designed, made and sold in-house by a Yamanashi mill

  • Sant'Egidio alla Vibrata · 1952 · silk, cashmere · fully-fashioned

    Vertically integrated Abruzzese mill, the value benchmark for extra-fine merino

  • Peterhead · 1929 · wool, cashmere · seamless

    Seam-free whole-garment Shetland and lambswool knitwear from a family mill in Peterhead

  • Inis Meáin · 1976 · alpaca, cashmere · Aran

    Luxury reinterpretations of Aran island knitwear, made on Inis Meáin since 1976

  • Lea Mills · 1784 · merino, cotton · fully-fashioned

    The benchmark for fine-gauge merino and Sea Island cotton, made at Lea Mills since 1784

  • Elgin & Hawick · 1797 · vicuña, cashmere · fully-fashioned

    Scotland's only vertically integrated cashmere mill, spinning and knitting its own fibre since 1797

  • Loro Piana

    $$$$

    Milan · 1924 · vicuña, cashmere · fully-fashioned

    Baby cashmere and vicuña knitwear from the world's leading rare-fibre house

  • Saint-Sauveur-de-Montagut · 1880 · silk, cashmere · fully-fashioned

    French fine-gauge knitwear and the lustrous proprietary Fil Lumière yarn, six generations of family ownership

  • Malo

    $$$$

    Florence · 1972 · silk, cashmere · fully-fashioned

    Florentine pure-cashmere label known for an exceptionally soft hand, relaunched in 2025

  • Montevideo · 1968 · alpaca, merino · hand-knit

    Fair-trade hand-dyed yarns and hand-knit garments from rural Uruguayan artisan cooperatives

  • Oleana

    $$$

    Ytre Arna · 1992 · alpaca, merino · jacquard

    Patterned Norwegian cardigans in merino, silk and alpaca, made in the brand's own factory near Bergen

  • Hawick · 1815 · silk, cashmere · intarsia

    Heritage Borders house behind the Argyle jumper and the twinset

  • Saint-James · 1889 · merino, cotton · fully-fashioned

    The Breton sailor jumper and marinière, knitted in Normandy since 1889

  • Sunspel

    $$$

    Long Eaton · 1860 · wool, cashmere · seamless

    British essentials house with Scottish-spun cashmere and lambswool knitwear

  • Varma

    $$

    Reykjavík · 1982 · wool, merino · hand-knit

    Icelandic wool sweaters, blankets and accessories knitted in Reykjavík

  • Hawick · 1874 · baby camel, cashmere · fully-fashioned

    Family-run Hawick knitter of dense multi-ply cashmere, Geelong lambswool and camelhair

  • Zegna

    $$$$

    Milan (mill at Trivero · 1910 · vicuña, cashmere · fully-fashioned

    Fully traceable Oasi Cashmere and vicuña knitwear from a vertically integrated Biella wool house

Merino wool: frequently asked questions

Is merino wool luxury?

Extra-fine merino, worsted-spun and knitted at a fine gauge by a specialist mill, is genuinely luxurious and often more practical than cashmere. Ordinary merino used in performance base layers is a commodity fibre. The difference lies in micron count, spinning quality and the mill's finishing.

Merino or cashmere: which is better?

Cashmere is softer and warmer for its weight; merino is more durable, more breathable and easier to care for. Many knitwear specialists offer both. For everyday wear and travel, extra-fine merino is often the better choice; for warmth and softness, cashmere.

Which brands make the best merino wool knitwear?

Houses in this index specialising in merino wool include Batoner, Corgi, Dale of Norway, evam eva, Gran Sasso, Harley of Scotland, Inis Meáin and John Smedley and 12 more. Judge any of them on fibre grade, gauge, construction and finishing rather than name alone.